Friday, November 21, 2014

Foundations Series: Traditional Gravy




Since the idea for this series first came about I knew that sauces were going to be on the list.  I was unsure what kind of sauce would be first, but with Thanksgiving next week a traditional gravy came right to the top of the list.  Gravy, like salad dressing, is one of those things I refuse to buy from the store.  You probably already have all the ingredients to make gravy in your home already and making it homemade means you're cutting out all of the preservatives and extra sodium that you don't need.  Besides that the taste of homemade gravy will outshine the canned any day!  The other great thing about gravy is that you can cook it in the time your meat needs to rest, and cutting into it before it rests is the real reason your turkey is dry.

Making gravy is not complicated, but it should be done with care.  The gravy I'm making here is the most basic gravy, and I will discuss variations along the way.  In it's purest form gravy is roux + stock and drippings.  I will offer that your gravy can be enhanced by bookending those two components with additional flavor.



In this case we will start by sautéing half of a very finely diced onion over medium-low heat until the begin to turn golden with some thyme, which is both my favorite herb and an excellent compliment to poultry like your Thanksgiving turkey.  Variations: chopped mushrooms are a wonderful addition to gravy (especially beef) celery and carrot (in extreme moderation) could also be added to the onions in this stage.

Once the onions start to become golden we will build a the roux.  A roux is a thickening agent made from equal parts fat and flour.  In this case we will use two tablespoons of butter (one of which is already in the pan with the onions, the second you will add now) and two tablespoons of flour.  Sprinkle the flour in one tablespoon at a time while you whisk.  You can use fat from the meat you've roasted instead of butter for a truly delicious roux as well.  Vigorously whisk the roux and cook it until it begins to take a golden color - be very careful not to let the roux burn.



Slowly add two cups of (warm, but not boiling) stock and drippings to the pan - whisking constantly and maybe taking a bad photo of it.  Whisk constantly until the mixture comes to a low boil and reduce to a simmer while gravy thickens.  Stir periodically as it simmers.  You can use whatever stock accompanies your meat.  Chicken stock will work perfectly fine with turkey, though you can sometimes find turkey stock this time of year.  I would also argue that a well made vegetable broth will heighten the flavor of a gravy.  I particularly like the organic vegetable broth from Trader Joe's because it has a wonderful leek flavor.  To use pan drippings simple drain the roasting pan into a clear, heat-proof container and wait for the fat to rise to the top.  Skim off the fat and combine drippings with stock.

At this point you have a fully fledged gravy, but you can take the opportunity to add some additional flavor to the gravy.  A tablespoon of alcohol (brandy, cognac, sherry, white wine, etc.) would be a lovely addition, likewise a tablespoon of cream.  Fresh herbs like parsley can also come into play here.  In researching this post I discovered that a chopped hard boiled egg is a popular (Southern?) addition to gravy, and while I can't say I'm planning on trying this I can see where they're coming from.  In beef gravy I'm partial to sour cream and dijon mustard stirred in at this point.  This would also be the time to add cooked and finely chopped giblets - a contentious ingredient to be sure.  I'm a fan of giblets because even though they look gross and are stuffed in a bird cavity they are full of flavor and are actually super vitamin rich.  To cook, cover them in water and boil away.  Pull the neck meat from the bone and chop everything finely to add to gravy.  



Special thanks to Pattie for answering the frantic GroupMe message and lending me her gravy boat.  May you all enjoy this gravy with those you care about this Thanksgiving!

Traditional Gravy

Ingredients
  • 1/2 yellow onion
  • 1 tsp. fresh thyme
  • 2 1/2 tbsp. butter
  • 2 tbsp. flour
  • 2 cups chicken (or appropriate meat) stock
Instructions
  1. Finely dice half of a yellow onion
  2. Sautee onion in 1.5 tablespoons of butter over medium-low heat
  3. When onion begins to brown add 1 teaspoon of fresh thyme leaves
  4. Add 1 tablespoon of butter, allow to melt and sprinkle in 2 tablespoons of flour, whisking vigorously
  5. When roux has begun to color, add 2 cups of warm chicken stock, and whisk continuously until mixture comes to a low boil
  6. Reduce to a simmer, season with black pepper, and add any additional flavor components.

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